Helsinki the way I know it

Every morning I pack my notebook and papers, put on a coat and make sure that scarf securely protects my neck from the cold. Make sure the door is locked. Now I’m ready to face piercing wind coming from the sea. Wind shall not be a surprise, as I live right next to the harbor. Four weeks ago ferry brought my dog and personal belongings to that terminal. We’ve got the key for a small apartment that is called home, and begun an adventure under the code name “Finnish life”.

Ferry Helsinki-Tallinn. Rainy winter in Hel.

“Finns are unfriendly, reserved, and warm up only after unreasonable amount of alcohol while in sauna” – good people warned. Also, Finns never look each other in the eyes, and brace yourself if you dare to smile at someone. If you are lucky, the person would just be confused and feel invaded. If luck abandoned you, you are about to get raped or punched in the face – depending on broadness of your smile (and layers of clothes are you wearing). Should I mention that these are only few out of many stereotypes I had to listen to while packed bags to leave? No doubt, stereotypes can be useful, but not when they build Chinese wall between you and new culture, make you prejudice and hostile before you even get to know the place and people.

During the Summer 2014 I spent long time in Finland for the first time. It was hard not to notice that people in fact do look at each other – and not only on feet, but actually in the eyes. “It’s different in the big city!”. Not to argue, but no, it’s not different. Since day one in Helsinki, I noticed that people do establish eye contact, may even smile at you and it does not seem to be outrageous accident. 

The other day I took a detour from usual route home from university. The weather was surprisingly calm and warm. Many small shops and cafes, few cars on a road and occasional passersby. Walked slowly, exploring windows of shops that sells postcards, stuff for artists, ethnic accessories, and clothes, bakeries with their tempting looking cakes and pastry (oh how hard it was to force myself to pass them by without spending all money there!) when I caught a glance of a man, who was wiping the floor in one of the stores. He smiled. I smiled back. “Moi!” – he said, waving at me. “Moi!”. Turned back to see him still looking and smiling at me. Walked down Michelinkatu, getting closer to the place called home, a young man took off his old-fashioned hat to greet me. 

Maybe it was that kind of a day, or I bumped onto two out of three extraverts in the city, but small things make difference, difference on perspective and feeling about life in the place, about people and self. Smiles, friendly glances, greetings from strangers and silly jokes from a guy at the canteen – together it makes one feel accepted, welcome and home. Also, feels good to break couple stereotypes. :)


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